Carb Tuning

Before adjusting any of these screws run the car till the cooling fan comes on !

1. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW : ( Air Fuel ratio , A/F ) ( ON ALL MODELS )

The IDLE MIXTURE SCREW is located behind the carb in a hole . as you can see it marked in that picture .

To adjust the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW use a screw driver and turn it clockwise and counterclockwise until you get the highest
RPM possible ! , after that press the gas to 3000 RPM to richen the Air Fuel mixture .

2. STOP THROTTLE SCREW SCREW : ( a screw with a plastic head )( all models)

This screw is just located above the hole of the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW see pictures below

2 different procedures for this screw !

PROCEDURE # 1 ( if you have the IDLE CONTROL SCREW in # 3 ) :

adjust the STOP THROTTLE SCREW by hand to the lowest idle possible ( counterclockwise )

PROCEDURE # 2 ( if you DON'T have the IDLE CONTROL SCREW in # 3 ) :

adjust the STOP THROTTLE SCREW by hand to the desired RPM ( 750 > 800 RPM )

3. IDLE CONTROL SCREW : ( NOT ON ALL MODELS ) ( I don't have it )

After adjusting the STOP THROTTLE SCREW to the lowest idle possible in PROCEDURE # 1 adjust this screw using a screwdriver to the desired RPM ( 750 > 800 RPM )
This IDLE CONTROL SCREW is located on the throttle bracket after the throttle adjustment nut , it should be in the marked area ( but as you can see i don't have it )

4. FAST IDLE SCREW : ( ON ALL MODELS ) ( Works in the cold morning )

This screw adjusts the RPM that car should rev at in cold mornings it should be from 2000 > 3000 this screw is really hard to find and reach , i just found it today !!! here is the area that it should be i !
you can adjust it by a screwdriver but you can only test it in the mornings ( don't mess with it if it is , r r cleaner to get better response in the mornings )

5. A/C IDLE SCREW : ( ON MODELS EQUIPPED WITH A/C ) ( Works in w hen A/C ON )

This screw adjusts the RPM when the A/C is on !
just adjust with a screwdriver , clockwise to increase RPM and counterclockwise to decrease !
i think the normal RPM is 1250 > 1500 RPM ( correct me if i am wrong )

92-95 civic TSX retrofit in oem STYLE housing

92-95 civic TSX retrofit in oem STYLE housing

Alright I tried to take as many pics as possible, so hopefully this will explain clearly how to retro-fit TSX
Projectors into an OEM style civic housing.
First go get one of these clear lenses OEM STYLE housing. Which will give you the best possible output from your projectors.
e8ef80f201f6c93656b5080ff57dfa45 92-95 civic TSX retrofit in oem STYLE housing
Pre-heat the oven at 350 and turned it off and put the lights in the oven for about 10 mins. You can also use a heat gun around the edges if that’s not enough.
Then get a flat head screwdriver and pry out the glass out a little.

Then take a sharp knife and cut the glue while you are prying it. I find this method very fast and easy, took me only 10 mins for both headlights.

Then you’ll have this

To take the reflector part out, just unscrew the adjustment screws.


Get a marker and put a line in the centre where the h4 hole was.
Then get a dermal and cut the back of the reflector out for your new projectors from this
9584130b0f662cec7912a7e23c8dc4bd 92-95 civic TSX retrofit in oem STYLE housing
To this


Get 4 L mounting brackets from home depot and cut them like this so it can fit onto the projectors

Mount it up to the TSX projectors and place it into the reflector housing.
Make sure it lines up wit the centre marking you did with the marker earlier.

After that just mark the holes where you need to drill and mount it up.
Chances are the horizontal aiming will need to be adjusted. So in order to do that,
You need to put it on the car and see if it’s straight.
If you need to adjust it just throw on some washers under one of the L brackets between the L bracket and reflector.
That way it raises it up or down.
I think this takes the longest, as you will have to take the reflector piece on and off.
After that’s done you will need to make a shroud for it. You can use anything to your imagination, or buy some E46 shrouds but they are expensive.
So here’s mine I made
Chrome ring from a travel mug (you can buy this at Wal-Mart)
3” PVC pipe (Home Depot)
Garden light plastic top. (Canadian tire)
And this bendable metal bracket from the plumbing section


I just drilled the wholes on the PVC pipe
And put a bolt there for the bendable bracket to mount onto the tsx projector.
Put the bracket on the inside.
Sorry didn’t take any pics. Got to use your imagination.
After the horizontal is straight, you can now seal up the headlight.
I sealed it up by using the heat gun around the old glue to make it soft again.
And put a nice bead of silicone around it. That should be good enough.
Then you get something like this,







This one is on a little incline
92d5233b12a540027ecfd044ecf4d54b 92-95 civic TSX retrofit in oem STYLE housing

Painting your own rims at home

Painting your own rims at home

** I am not responsible for any damage this might cause to your vehicle, either directly or indirectly **
Painting your own rims at home without using Aircraft Stripper
Applicable to: Any alloy wheels
Difficulty: 2.5/5 – Moderate
Tools you need
- 1 Can of Duplicolor High Performance Wheel Paint Clear Coat
- 1 Can of Dupicolor Sandable Primer
- 4 Cans of Dupicolor High Performance Wheel Paint
- 400, 600 grit sand paper
- Dish washer
- Prepsol
- Towels
- Newspapers
- Masking Paper
- Index cards
Instructions
1. Clean your rims thoroughly with dish washer to remove wax/dirt from the surface
2. Begin wetsanding your rims with 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the surface for paint and to level the surface
3. Once the surface is relatively smooth and imperfection-free, move on to 600 grit sandpaper and repeat steps above
Note: If your rims has any scratches etc, it is important that you fix them now through sanding/bondo. The primer and especially the paint will not cover these defects for you.

09e817111524f8ee534bad3f5397d3db Painting your own rims at home
for a super low price, but the finish was very very bad on it)
4. Clean the rims again with dish washer to remove dirt
5. Wipe your rims with prepsol to remove any leftover wax etc. (this step is not necessary)
6. Let rims dry completely
7. Put newspapers on the floor and place your rims on the newspapers to prevent spraying color on the floor
8. Put masking tape over any areas you do not want to paint (eg. rims logo etc.)
9. Put index cards over the circumference of the rims to protect the tires from being painted

10. Spray a light coat of primer on the rims, wait 10 minutes and repeat until rims are covered with primer, then wait 10 minutes or until primer is dry

11. Spray a light coat of wheel paint on the rims, wait 7 minutes and repeat until rims are covered with color, then wait 1 hour before putting on clear coat (the Duplicolor wheel paint is different than the company’s regular automotive paint, it is mixed with a metallic and is harder to control IMO)


12. Spray a light coat of clear coat on the rims, wait 10 minutes and repeat until you have around 2-3 coats.

Gas Door Lightening

Gas Door Lightening

OKay, first off… This is sort of a joke. I was bored and I thought to myself, “My gas door has an extra piece of useless metal on it. Let’s hack it off and say we did it because it lightens the total weight of the car.”
Tools:
- metal sheers
- drill
- grinding stone bit
- body color spraypaint
- masking tape
- duct tape
- newspaper
This is how the gas door looks like on a 2001 Civic. The 2002 Civics have a little plastic gas cap hanger I think. Maybe I could have even bought the part off of the 2002 Civics to put on and have myself a gas cap hanger. IMO that just gets in the way.

The little part in the middle is totally useless. It’s just dangling there and not really doing anything. It doesn’t press up against the gas cap when the door is closed. It doesn’t really stiffen the gas door. It’s useless. Let’s hack it off. Use the metal sheers to cut it down the middle. Then bend the pieces up and down until they tear off.

Woohoo! We just lost 0.2 ounces! Maybe 0.3 ounces with the little tabs that were left on the car that I didn’t place on the scale. I ground them off with the dirll and the sanding bit. I placed a few pieces of duct tape behind the work area so that I wouldn’t grind up anything else with that sanding bit.

Viola! No more center piece. Uh oh! It’s not painted behind that metal piece! Whoops!


No problem. We use some spraypaint to paint that spot. I had some from a while back and it matches the OEM paint perfectly. I masked off what I didn’t want painted with newspaper and masking tape. I used quick bursts from about a half a foot away and I moved the nozzle around fast here and there to get good even coverage. The results speak for themself.

Garage Oil change w/ PCV valve replacement (D16Y7)

Garage Oil change w/ PCV valve replacement (D16Y7)

***pls use jack stands in combination of the actual jack for safety***
***always have someone to standby while you’re under the car , just in case something wrong happen someone can call help***
materials: (all these things you can buy at CT)
jack
pair of jack stands
creeper
4L oil (5w30 or 10w30)
Oil filter.
pcv valve
long nose pliers
17mm wrench <– forgot what i used but i think this is it LOL
flat screw driver
drain pan & funnel
wheel stoppers
steps:
1. place the wheel stoppers at the back tires then Jack the car to your desired height and place the jack stands
2. locate the drain plug. (its in the driver side area , just about the same distance with the wheels)

3. place the drain pan under it then unscrew the bolt with the 13mm wrench (carefully remove the plug so you wont get dirty)

4. when no more oil is left. locate the oil filter and remove. (leave the drain pan under while removing the oil filter as more oil will follow.) I used my hands to unscrew the oil filter. (the oil filter is located just above the drain plug) there’s that cheap motomaster filter that MR. LUBE uses

5. after unscrewing the oil filter, this is what it looks like…

6. after all the oil is drained out. locate the pcv valve. (the PCV valve is just about above the oil filter) you will need a flat screw driver to pry it and and then a long nose to take it out, or you could use your hands. you will need to squeeze your hands into tight spaces

7. if you are having trouble removing the pcv valve, you can pull the hose downward past all the tight spaces like i did in this picture. (be carefull not to puncture the rubber hose as this will create a lot of problems) you might need a wire or something to pry the hose from the PCV cause the hose might be sticking to the pcv. (rubber to rubber + heat = glued together)
970c625a81f4a0e0c7d0fcc4bad1fac3 Garage Oil change w/ PCV valve replacement (D16Y7)

8. after placing the PCV back on you could now screw the oil filter back to palce and the drain bolt w/ washer as well. (DO NOT OVER SCREW as this might cause a lot of trouble. Just turn until you feel the washer touch the surface then turn a just little more, same with the oil filter.)
theres my new fram oil filter (part number PH3593A)

9. put some of your 5w30 or 10w30 oil (use funnel) then measure afterwards using the dip stick and your good to go. (don’t forget to put the oil cap back on)
10. put the old oil back in the new oil jug and dispose off properly. there are free drop off locations a.k.a recycling centers around the city or just drop them @ night @ walmart.

Civic Chassis Codes

Civic Chassis Codes

JDM and USDM Civic Chassis Codes
Chassis Motor Origin Year Vehicle
4G (1988-1991)
ED3 1.5L USDM All 4-door DX/LX
ED4 1.6L USDM All 4-door EX
ED6 1.5L USDM All 3-door Standard
ED7 1.6L USDM All 3-door Si
ED8 1.5L USDM All CRX standard / HF
ED9 1.6L USDM All CRX Si
EE2 1.5L USDM All Wagon
EE4 1.6L USDM All Wagon 4WD
EE8 B16A EDM All Civic VTi
EF1 D13B JDM All Civic 3-door/4-door
EF2 D15B JDM All Civic 3-door/4-door
EF3 ZC JDM All Civic Si 3-door/Civic Si Extra 3-door
EF5 ? JDM All Civic 4-door 4wd
EF6 D15B JDM All Civic ? / CR-X
EF7 ZC JDM All Civic ? / CR-X Si
EF8 B16A JDM All CR-X SiR
EF9 B16A JDM All Civic SiR
5G (1992-1995)
EG1 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG1 D15B7 USDM 1993-1995 del Sol S
EG2 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG2 B16A3 USDM 1994-1995 del Sol VTEC (DOHC)
EG3 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EG4 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG5 D16Z6 EDM All 3-door/4-door
EG6 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG7 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EG8 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG8 D15B7 USDM All 4-door DX/LX
EG9 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/del Sol CR-X
EH1 ZC JDM All 4-door/4WD
EH2 D15B8/D15Z1/D15B7 USDM All 3-door CX/VX/DX
EH3 D16Z6 USDM 1993-1995 3-door Si
EH6 D16Z6 USDM 1993-1995 del Sol Si
EH9 D16Z6 USDM All 4-door EX
EJ1 D16Z6 USDM All 2-door EX
EJ2 D15Z1 USDM All 2-door DX
6G (1996-2000)
EG1 D16Y7 USDM 1996-1997 del Sol S (SOHC)
EG2 B16A2 USDM 1996-1997 del Sol VTEC (DOHC)
EH6 D16Y8 USDM 1993-1995 del Sol Si (SOHC)
EJ1 D16A JDM All 2-door
EJ3 ? JDM All 2-door / 4WD
EJ6 D16Y7 CANADA All 2-door DX/Si
EJ6 D17A7 CANADA 2000 2-door DX-G/ 3-door CX-G
EJ6 D16Y7 CANADA 1996-1998 3-door CX
EJ6 D16Y7 CANADA 1999-2000 3-door CX/DX
EJ6 D16Y7 CANADA 2000 3-door SE
EJ6 D16Y7 CANADA All 4-door LX/EX
EJ6 D16Y7 USDM All 3-door CX/DX
EJ6 D16Y7 USDM All 4-door DX/LX
EJ6 D16Y7 USDM 1999 4-door DX-V
EJ7 D16Y5 USDM All 2-door HX (VTEC-E)
EJ8 D16Y8 CANADA All 2-door EX
EJ8 D16Y8 USDM All 2-door/4-door EX
EK2 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK3 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK4 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK5 D16A JDM All 4-door 4WD/LEV
EK8 D16A JDM All 4-door 4WD/LEV
EK9 B16B JDM All 3-door Type-R
EM1 B16A2 CANADA 1999-2000 2-door SiR
EM1 B16A2 USDM 1999-2000 2-door Si
7G (2001+)
? 1.7L USDM All 2-door DX/LX
? 1.7L USDM All 4-door DX/LX
? 1.7L USDM All 2-door HX
EM2 D17A1 USDM All 2-door/4-door EX
EP1 1.4L JDM All 3-door
EP2 1.6L JDM All 3-door
EP3 K20A3 USDM 2002+ 3-door Si
EP3 K20C1 JDM All 3-door Type-R
EU7 1.4L JDM All 5-door
EU8 1.6L JDM All 5-door

EK center console in EG

EK center console in EG

This DIY is for fitting an EK center console, into an EG.
This is a fairly difficult alteration, if you not confident trying what I’ am doing here please do not attempt it, if you follow what I do, but your parts get damaged because you don’t know what you are doing it is not my fault.
Sorry if the pics are not the greatest my camera batteries were dead, so I used my phone.
One of the hardest things for me was to find the console as a whole. I spent an hour at a local junk yard searching around.
Here is a list of parts you need:

• Console shell
• Manual shifter boot – if the boot is ripped you can reuse the boot itself from your EG, you just have to put it on the metal bracket of the EK( as far as I can tell you can only do this with a 5spd car because the shifter boot hole itself is moved forward.)
• Cup holder and Tape deck assembly – In my search I found many cup holders with missing clips to keep the lid closed, so make sure you pay attention to this. For the attached piece, I found two options, either a tape deck, which I removed so essentially I have a deck hole. I also found a large pocket in the same spot but unfortunately the pocket is too deep and will hit the dash to body mount.

List of tools needed:
1. Phillips screwdriver
2. Dremel tool,exacto knife, and/or hack saw – for cutting plastic, I used exacto knife and it worked fairly well, just be careful(cut my thumb up pretty good, patched it up but bled all over everything)
3. Masking tape
4. Drill and small drill bit
First thing I did was remove the console which housed the cigarette lighter and ashtray. There a four screws which hold it in, two on the side near the floor and two up top above the ashtray and cig lighter. When you pull it out you will have to disconnect the harness going to the cig lighter.
8f33b0eaf7fa80dc75901f846cff8f8b EK center console in EG
f559425f816b40dc8125d19fb890242f EK center console in EG
This is what you will get

The next thing would be to remove the console which houses the shifter. There are two screws on the front sides. There are also two under the E-Brake, remove the cover first. Now this part may be tricky, release the handbrake, and see if you can remove the screws, use a large Phillips screwdriver and apply lots of pressure and be firm. I’ve taken many of these apart and I’ve stripped lots of screws, so be careful.
df7ada71aba875fbbdac6dd12088800f EK center console in EG


After that I started to get the EK console ready, there are extruded brackets on the rear of the console that I cut off with a utility knife, take your time because if you put a gouge in it there is nothing you can really do about it.

a95f9f1bc31cdb246007d281d93f1673 EK center console in EG
Next is to cut the shifter housing to make room for the new consoles cup holders. I used a piece of masking tape to help cut a straight line.

Then I needed to cut the bottom half of the cig holder console. Essentially cutting it just bellow the ashtray is best. It’ll fit behind the new console. But first you need to remove the flip down compartment. There are three screws in total holding it in place, two in the back and one attached to the ashtray bracket. Take the screws out and take a bit of time taking it out, may come out easy for you may not, only tip I have is keep the flip down closed. And take the harness mount off the bracket as well.

15fc0f8cdd088ef28898451f6be67e96 EK center console in EG
The next thing would be to cut the console. Again I used tape to mask a straight line. Now I wasn’t very careful when I cut mine and the wrap around part at the rear does not flow with the new console, there are gaps. So I will have to buy a new console, but this is how I would do it the second time: Mount the cig console back in the car then line up the new console next to it and trace a line on the cig console where the two will meet. Then cut just below the line. But here are pics of my first attempt.

f7b074276b29630309bfef0467d9ec56 EK center console in EG
Next you need to remove this plastic piece from under the carpet (gets in the way of the cup holders)
32d5ee0ea5889c5cd4a003ffa969f618 EK center console in EG
Now the tabs on the new console will interfere with the old console, so you need to remove some plastic. Do some eyeballing first, dont want to much off, take your time, there is a pic below of what you need to cut.
57049d0efb78acc0a0eef97648c1586c EK center console in EG

After I was able to I mocked up the console to make sure it fit well. And the next step was to mount it.

I didnt want to take too much time and effort at this point in mounting it. I had some self tapping screws
and plastic covers for them so i decided to drill some guide holes first. Before I drilled I installed the large
steel screws in the old console under the Ebrake so it would align properly. made sure it all lined up and drilled away.

Quickly painted the caps, ill hafta re-do, but this is the final product.

Cant really see them, unless you are looking for them, so figured to everyone else and the untrained
eye noone would know

Here is another pic of the final product

Only thing I have not done is fasten the front, not going to worry about it because it all holds solidly into
place.

Because I have nothing to put into the tape slot right now I just got a piece of plexi glass from work,
painted the back side black, flipped it and had the clear side out, and it looks clean. Because it is temp.
I just taped it up on the back.