Cobb Tuning – Mazdaspeed 3 Front Mount Intercooler V2.0

It’s obvious, in this tough economic time, many companies are trying to downsize. We hear about our friends who were just laid off. Some, work for large companies who were doing great. Unfortunately, times have changed and none of us can guarantee our job security. In the automotive sector, it has gotten pretty bad. Enthusiasts are losing their cars, unable to make payments. Companies, who produce performance parts for the enthusiast minded, are suffering too. People just can’t afford to spend money on performance. Those that due have that luxury, are being a bit wiser about their purchases and want the best quality, for the best price.

We recall Cobb making an exit from producing hard parts for the enthusiast market. At least, when it came to the Mazdaspeed line. Past quality issues didn’t help the matter and Cobb had to make some changes to operations to survive this hard economic time. So, they chose to step back, re-focus and start from scratch on both marketing and streamline their processes. Cobbs name, while popular, was still considered conservative in their offerings for performance. The AccessPort, whether for Mazda, Subaru or Mitsubishi, had to be compatible with a whole assortment of aftermarket parts to support compatibility with their Off The Shelf Maps, This is entirely to difficult to undertake, so Cobb decided to re-enter the hard parts business, but only producing parts that harvest the true power of the AccessPort itself. Those with custom setups or have gone beyond stage 2+ bolt ons should use their head and seek a professional tune from one of Cobbs approved pro-tuners.

Cobb also needed to work on its marketing a bit. Polishing a reputation is no easy work, so Cobb decided to employ Gary Sheehan, who is a well known racer to head their marketing strategy. The result, is a successful line of performance parts that compliment the power of Cobb Tuning suite known as, the Access Port. Its also to see Cobb expanding their territories. They now have locations in WA, CA and TX, so this is a huge expansion for them and allows more customers to get a pro tune from their own calibration tuners. If you are good at understanding tuning and know a bit about the Mazda, you could take a OTS map for your Mazda, load it in the new version of Access Tuner Race and tweak the map to work with the car. Please use caution and only change one variable at a time if you are new to this and test the map before moving on to a another section of table modification. The results can be catastrophic to your engine if you make a mistake, especially in the boost and timing tables. Noobs, be warned!

Cobb made a violent exit from the Mazdaspeed market in 2009. They took the time to refocus their efforts and get back on track with the most complicated ECU to ever hit the tuner market. Its common knowledge that the Gen 1 & 2 Mazdaspeed 3′s are a pain in the ass to eek power from, so a new attack plan went into effect to figure out the missing piece to this mysterious puzzle. With the resources properly shifted, Cobb Tuning has successful removed the load cap from our ECU and has employed a few new table unlockings to get us over the tuning hump.

To compliment that, why not introduce some updated hard parts to take advantage of the new power potential?

Fast forward, Cobb Tuning has re-released the infamous Front Mount Intercooler, V2.0. A lot of changes have gone into this latest build and finally they took suggestions and implemented them in this update. Cobb had a 90% successful product on their V1.0 but their was some issues with the hotpipe at the drivers side corner and the stock shift weight hitting the cold pipe. All of this, has been successfully fixed and we tested the system before it was released to go for sale.

Cobb Tuning has put its trust into the MSF organization to lead them into hardware testing prior to releasing products in the wild. We can communicate fitment issues and/or give suggestions to enhance the product. What we have here, is this example of a working relationship between tuner and enthusiast. Anyhow, lets get down to business.

The Update:

Highlights of the Kit:

* 2.5″ aluminum tubing powder coated dark gray.
* Piping has been revised so that it does not interfere with the frame rail, bumper beam and oil lines.
* 5-ply blue silicone couplers.
* Stainless steel t-bolt clamps.
* Powder coated black mounting and power steering cooler relocation brackets.
* Stainless steel fasteners.
* Minor trimming of the bumper cover required.
* Will work with stock BPV or aftermarket BPV that is stock style fitment.
* Retains the stock bumper beam and does not require cutting the bumper beam.
* Under tray can be reinstalled with no modifications.
* Does not require disconnecting of the power steering lines.
* CFD tested and airflow optimized.
* Tested 0.65psi boost pressure loss across the core
* 85% efficient intercooler means greatly reduced core outlet temperatures!
* New shift weight that is 0.66 lbs less than stock which improves the shift feel and allows for more pipe clearance.

What Cobb Tuning has effectively done here is tweaked their entire system. What we have is the same intercooler core, same dimensions with the same brackets. By far, Cobb has always had the superior mounting system for their IC. There is no crazy off center core, no additional power steering pump modifications or radical cutting going on to fit the core to the car.

The core still remains as a custom bar and plate aluminum core measuring in at a healthy 24″ x 3.5″ x 7.9″. Its a 3.5″ thick core that shows no lag or boost drop whatsoever. It has updated end tanks with threaded bracket mounts on each side of the tanks. it still comes unmarked, meaning you have the option to brand the core with the supplied Cobb template, leave it unmarked or simply spray your own custom logo/text on the core itself.

It still features the 2.5″ aluminum pipe that’s in a finished powdercoat with rolled lips so the silicone couplers don’t pop up during high boost flow. Cobb has redesigned every pipe in this kit in order to move them away from any sharp metal that would saw its way into the V1.0 piping and cause a leak. Also, all the pipe banging has been eliminated under load with this new pipe design. Billy did a fantastic job at the drivers side bumper support area on the redesigned pipes.

The only real issue we ran into on this kit update was the included t-bolt clamps that needed to be chucked. They were good for one install… if you had to make an adjustment, you were screwed as the rod on the t-bolt clamp would snap. Good thing we had spares on hand and I told Gary to go back to the old clamps they used on their first kit. Gary told us the change was made for more quality, sturdier clamps on the retail version.

The second issue we had was the shift weight. Since we were still working off the old directions, we messed around with this for close to an hour. Turns out, the new weight needs to be install ON TOP of the shift fork, instead of the bottom like stock. Simply use the two black nuts provided, a dab of loctite blue and you are in business. I have always wanted the shift weight, but Cobb had stopped making them. It really compliments the stock and after market short shifters out there.

Installation:

Nothing has changed really as far as the install goes. We did do a test fit outside the car to figure out how the new pipes connect. There was a modification made to the V2.0 kit where the lower cold pipe swing up from the passenger side, hugging the bottom of the radiator. There is a small hose down there that billy was able to incorporate a small V to clear it. The lower pipes now hug the radiator line, setting above the belly pan with plenty of clearance to boot.

If you need a reference for installation, please see our V1.0 install here. Below you will find a list of tools that we feel you will need to successfully get this kit installed within 3 hours:

* Phillips Head Screw Driver
* Flat Head Screw Driver
* Socket Wrench/Ratchet
* 8mm Socket
* 10mm Socket
* 12mm Socket
* 3/16″ Allen Wrench
* 6″ Extension For Ratchet
* Ultility Knife
* Can of Silicon Spray Lubricant for the Silicone Pieces.

Reference Changes Via Photographs:

Here are photos that show the changes and highlights problem areas on the old kit, which were a problem for owners. Each picture below will have a short description.

Like I had talked about earlier, we did a test fit outside the car to see how radical the changes were and to get familiar with how all of this would bolt up. So, since I needed a few extra hands, I had both Christian and Gary show up with some beer to help me out:

All kidding aside, this is how the kit will basically bolt up. If you had some brains, unlike us that day, it would be a smart idea to take some masking tape and just number the sections. Once you get under the car, some of the pipes can get a big confusing, so pre-labeling them will save you some frustration. I would also advise you to go ahead and slip on your t-bolt clamps here and check the orientation of where they will be and will you be able to get your ratchet in there. Taking that extra 10 mins now and doing this, will save you an hour or two of screaming profanities and having to remove pipes because you put the damn clamps on backwards.

This next photo illustrates the bottom V connection working its way around the small heater hose below the radiator. I know on the V1.0 kit this was just a straight shot, so obviously more detail went into to how these pipe run. You will note that this pipe hugs the radiator and gives plenty of clearance for the belly pan.

In the next set of pictures, you will see how well Billy designed the flow of the hot pipe leading past the notorious left bumper support. This area had punched a few holes in a number of pipes, mine included. I ran around for a year with aluminum putty fill in mind, constantly replacing it, since I was to lazy to just have it welded with a thicker plate. I am happy to report this is not even a stress zone any longer!

Theres plenty of clearance judging by the pictures if you are still stubborn enough to run a CAI. Its wise to ditch the system and go SRI, but some people still want to hold on to these nostalgic pieces for whatever reason.

Conclusion:

If I had to nitpick to find a flaw in this kit it would be that the core’s inlet/outlet lacks a lips to hold the silicone hose tightly. That is really, the only flaw I can now find in this kit. People have asked about having methanol nozzle taps installed on the pipe, but honestly its no necessary. Devil’s Own sells a adapter than goes into the silicone slipjoints, where you could install a nozzle. You wont have to worry about any stripped threads and its cheaper to replace a $3 piece of silicone then having the pipe re-welded.

It’s nice to have a kit that I no longer have to worry about checking all the time for new puncture holes and annoying rubbing issues. If this is how Cobb Tuning plans to start off their new hardparts program, then they are on the mark this time around! The cobb BPV really compliments this kit and shortly, you will see a review of that pieced added here.

Again, we thank you for supporting MSF and I hope you find this review for the updated Cobb FMIC V2.0 well worth the read.

My thanks to Gary Sheehan for getting this kit out to us for testing and his punctual response back to some of the concerns to make this one of the best kits on the market!